There are lots of good, underuntilized hikes around the perimeter of Baxter State Park. The Horserace Pond Loop in the Nature Conservancy’s Debsconeag wilderness is one of the most spectacular. The hike visits six lakes and ponds, climbs open ledges with expansive views, passes through gorgeous, moss and boulder forests, and offers fine opportunites to view wildlife. Horserace Pond is one of Maine’s best secret swimming holes. The deep pond is surrounded by granite boulders that offer good access and places to sit after a dip in the cool water. The pond sits in a steep valley between two ridges, one with a large area of cliffs that loom over the pond. There are campsites at the east end of the pond that you can use on a first-come first serve basis. The ledges far above Horserace Pond offer fine views of the surrounding country ncluding a great view of Katahdin.
The full hike is a 9.3 miles lollipop (If you skip the out and back to Rainbow Lake, it’s a 6.5 miles lollipop). There are 1968 feet of climbing involved. The ridge is less than 1700 feet high, but there’s lots of up and down along the ridge and getting to Rainbow Lake. Because of the distance and the amount of climbing, the hike is rated strenuous. The trails are well-marked and maintained.
To find the trailhead, follow the road out of Millinocket toward Baxter State Park. 1.3 miles past the pinch between Millinocket and Ambejejus Lakes where Northwoods Trading Post is, turn left on the gravel road that connects to the Golden Road. Drive 9 miles on the Golden Road to Abol Bridge. Cross Abol Bridge and enjoy the view of Katahdin. Continue another 5.2 miles on the Golden Road. Turn left onto the Horserace Pond Access Road at the sign. Drive 0.2 miles to the end of the road where the trailhead is.
The hike:
0.0 Horserace Pond Trailhead. There’s a sign with info and a good map of the Debsconeag wilderness. The trail crosses Horserace Brook on a bridge.
0.6 The trail follows an old roadbed most of the first section. You pass through two old roadcuts before reaching a junction. Turn left onto the blue-blazed trail toward Rainbow Lake.
1.6 Climb steadily through mixed forest with some real giants the the shoulder of a ridge. Pass the orange-blazed trail.
2.1 Descend steadily to Clifford Pond. Don’t bushwack over to the shore when you first reach it. There’s a short side trail to the pond farther ahead.
2.6 The trail wanders through the woods to the shore of Woodman’s Pond. The section of trail along this pond is pretty overgrown but easy to follow.
3.0 Descend gently then steadily to the shore of Rainbow Lake. The steeper section begins where the trail passes a very large erratic boulder sitting in the woods. The trail ends at the inlet on Rainbow Lake where Clifford Brook flows into the lake. From this quiet spot, you can see less than half of Rainbow Lake. Directly across from the trail’s end is a commercial camp on the lake. There’s no road access, and no other camps. This is truely a large wilderness lake. The Appalachian Trail follows the length of the far shore. This is a good spot to see loons, ducks, trout, dragonflies, frogs, and songbirds.
To continue the hike, retrace your steps past Woodman’s and Clifford Ponds to the orange-blazed trail.
4.4 Arrive back at the junction with the orange-blazed trail. Turn left onto it.
5.0 Descend gently on the orange-blazed trail , then climb to Clifford Pond overlook.
5.3 Rollercoaster along the ledgy ridge, then climb to a small, marshy pond hemmed in between sheer ledges. The trail climbs up past the pond to the top of one of the lichen-covered ledges. You can see Katahdin peeking over the ridge to the northeast.
5.5 Climb to an overlook with spectacular views south and west.
5.6 Descend off the ledge and reach a huge erratic on the shore of a pretty pond.
5.9 Climb past the pond to a ledge top view of Katahdin.
6.1 Climb to the high point on the hike: an open ledge with fine views from O-J-I and Katahdin in the northeast to the lakes and mountains south and west.
7.0 Descend steadily through a gorgeous moss-covered evergreen and boulder forest. When Horserace Pond becomes visible through the trees, the descent becomes less steep.
7.1 Reach the shore of Horserace Pond.
7.3 The trail wanders among the boulders on the shore of the pond to its east end where there are several campsites.
8.7 The trail turns away from the pond and descends gently within earshot of Horserace Brook to the junction with the blue-blazed trail. Pass the trail and continue straight ahead, retracing your steps back to the trailhead.
9.3 Arrive back at the trailhead.